{"id":2219,"date":"2019-09-20T09:22:42","date_gmt":"2019-09-20T08:22:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/science-engineering\/?p=2219"},"modified":"2023-06-21T09:25:05","modified_gmt":"2023-06-21T08:25:05","slug":"manchesters-fashion-ascent-and-the-elephant-in-the-room","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/science-engineering\/2019\/09\/20\/manchesters-fashion-ascent-and-the-elephant-in-the-room\/","title":{"rendered":"Manchester\u2019s fashion ascent – and the elephant in the room"},"content":{"rendered":"

Two centuries have passed since Manchester established itself as the centre of the global cotton trade. Known as \u2018Cottonopolis\u2019, the city was using a third of the world\u2019s cotton production at the height of its textile boom. In fact, Manchester was the first centre of mass production, thanks to the arrival of steam-powered machines in factories, which sped up the spinning process inexorably.<\/p>\n

Yet by the start of the 20th<\/sup> century, the factories fell quiet and the warehouses stood empty. Cottonopolis was over.<\/p>\n

Less than a century later, Manchester has once again established itself as a centre of textiles production and sales. The question this time round is, at what cost does this success come?<\/p>\n

A city on trend<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Named for its unique selling point \u2013 the fact that you can have a new outfit delivered to you within days or even hours of ordering \u2013 \u2018fast fashion\u2019 is the great equaliser of western society. Consumers can get a new outfit at a reasonable price – identical to the one they\u2019ve just seen modelled by their favourite influencer \u2013 and they can get it the next day. From runway to your wardrobe in record time, and without the designer price tag.<\/p>\n

\u201cFast fashion does democratise fashion for everybody to engage with \u2013 not just rich people,\u201d says Dr Patsy Perry, senior lecturer at the Department of Materials. \u201cThat\u2019s a great thing – it\u2019s a great social leveller because not everyone has the disposable income to be able to afford luxury brands.\u201d<\/p>\n

And the heart of this burgeoning industry is Manchester. \u201cPost-1990s, a lot of UK clothing production moved to the Far East. But now, what we have are all these mills left over from the legacy of the industry in Manchester,\u201d says Professor Liz Barnes, former fashion marketing lecturer at the University. \u201cThere was then a gap for big clothing importers dominated by the Indian and Pakistani communities to use their contacts and networks back home.<\/p>\n

\u201cFrom this came successful entrepreneurs who poured this knowledge and experience into online brands. And being online offers opportunities, as you don\u2019t need a network of stores – you just need a good website,\u201d she adds.<\/p>\n

\n

\u201cAs the erosion of the high street continues as it struggles to compete, fast fashion will continue to grow.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

While Manchester\u2019s Cottonopolis legacy meant it had infrastructure for a new fashion sector to thrive, the city and wider region had already established itself as a leader in catalogue retail. As Prof Barnes explains: \u201cThere\u2019s that history and heritage there and catalogue is the natural predecessor to online.\u201d<\/p>\n

Today, Manchester-born brands like Missguided, Boohoo and JD Williams are leading the way in fast online fashion \u2013 and they, and others like them, show no signs of slowing down.<\/p>\n

\u201cOnline shopping has really changed things. Speed is the norm but what we\u2019ve got now is, very significantly, that the fastest growing retail sector is online and it\u2019s online fast fashion,\u201d says Prof Barnes. \u201cAs the erosion of the high street continues as it struggles to compete, that sector will continue to grow.\u201d<\/p>\n

A new outfit you can order on your phone as you watch TV on a Thursday evening and receive first thing Friday morning ready for your night out, all without spending more than \u00a320 – there has to be a catch.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe elephant in the room\u201d<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

When it comes to fast fashion, there is a catch \u2013 in fact, there are several.<\/p>\n

\u201cFast fashion is so accessible, so cheap, so readily available online, fast, free delivery \u2013 it\u2019s too hard to resist,\u201d says Dr Perry, who specialises in the environmental impact of the growing industry. \u201cAnd then we end up with a mountain of textile waste. A lot of the products are made from polyester and synthetic materials, which don\u2019t biodegrade. A lot of nasty chemicals and dyes involved in production lead to water pollution. So, it\u2019s become a major problem.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe elephant in the room,\u201d continues Dr Perry, \u201cis that the vast volume of the stuff is predominantly made of virgin polyester.\u201d As polyester is derived from petroleum, coal, air and water, the environmental cost of its production is, obviously, high. Factor in the fact it doesn\u2019t biodegrade and takes between 35 and 45 years to decompose, and it\u2019s easy to see why it has become one of the top concerns among sustainability campaigners.<\/p>\n

Earlier this year, the Environmental Audit Committee called on government to take action to ensure that fashion brands and retailers take responsibility for the waste generated by the industry. Mary Creagh MP, chair of the committee, said: \u201cFast fashion means we overconsume and under use clothes. As a result, we get rid of over a million tonnes of clothes, with \u00a3140 million worth going to landfill, every year.\u201d<\/p>\n

Even starting to unpick some of the damage done requires a sea change in both the production and marketing operations of fashion retailers, and in the behaviour of consumers.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s fine to buy these items if you carefully consider what you\u2019re buying; if there\u2019s a specific need for it; if you look after it and keep it \u2013 what\u2019s wrong with that?,\u201d says Dr Perry. \u201cBut it\u2019s the way that we think about it – almost like a cup of coffee to be thrown away once you\u2019ve finished it – which is wrong, because there\u2019s been so many processes that have happened to that clothing; so many people have touched it; it\u2019s been across so many miles \u2013 to end up being purchased and maybe not even worn before it\u2019s thrown away.\u201d<\/p>\n

However, it seems change is in the air. \u201cSociety is becoming more aware of sustainability issues – consumers are asking questions and various geographical locations are increasing legislation in this area,\u201d says Dr Perry.<\/p>\n

The true cost of being fastest<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

It is the \u2018fast\u2019 component of fast fashion that is the most damaging. Where previously manufacturing was outsourced, consumer demand to receive purchases within days of ordering means that the one-month wait for the shipping containers to arrive is no longer an option for these online brands. As a result, more and more clothing in now made in the UK.<\/p>\n

Dr Amy Benstead is a lecturer in Fashion Management and specialises in the subject of modern slavery. \u201cOffshoring makes clothing cheaper. But to speed it up, the manufacturing has to happen here. Yet retailers still deliver\u2026\u201d she explains. There has to be a catch.<\/p>\n

\u201cThese e-tailers are able to be fast because they are getting a lot made in the UK,\u201d Dr Benstead explains. \u201cBut with that, there are stories emerging of exploitation.<\/p>\n

\u201cThis is a global issue,\u201d Dr Benstead warns, \u201cAnd it is happening in the UK as well.\u201d<\/p>\n

Known as \u2018dark factories\u2019, these manufacturing units are present across the UK and their workers are paid far below the minimum wage. Yet few customers question who made their clothes or where they came from.<\/p>\n

\n

\u201cI think that people are a lot more aware about environmental damage, but not about the exploitation that can actually happen when your clothes are being made.”<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s an assumption that when it\u2019s made in the UK it\u2019s better, because we are a civilised country with regulations,\u201d says Dr Benstead. \u201cBut exploitation is still happening here.\u201d She adds: \u201cI think that people are a lot more aware about environmental damage and recycling and plastic use arising from the manufacture of their clothing, but not about the exploitation that can actually happen when your clothes are being made. I think people just don\u2019t think about who made their clothes and that it\u2019s actually a person who made that item.\u201d<\/p>\n

So, who takes responsibility? How can fashion be better? \u201cIt\u2019s the brands really, fundamentally, who have to take responsibility, because they have trained us as consumers to shop in this way. They have created that demand and consumers only buy what\u2019s presented to them,\u201d says Dr Perry.<\/p>\n

But where is the motivation for brands to take this step? \u201cIn the end, it\u2019s about educating the consumer, and these businesses have no vested interest in making us more sustainable in the way we buy our garments as it would mean encouraging consumers to buy less \u2013 and no business is going to do that,\u201d says Prof Barnes.<\/p>\n

Yet consumer thinking is changing. In the wake of the Extinction Rebellion that has ignited debate about the damage done to the planet and how on Earth it can be reversed, consumers \u2013 and particularly young consumers \u2013 are asking questions.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe all need to buy less and buy better,\u201d says Dr Perry. \u201cBut we also need to be offered less and offered better.\u201d<\/p>\n

As a city that\u2019s been at the forefront of two fashion and textile revolutions, can Manchester step up and lead the way? If ever there was a time to head up a revolution, it\u2019s now.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Be sure to <\/strong>subscribe on our homepage<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0to keep up to date with all the latest posts from The Hub.<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Words \u2013 Hayley Cox<\/em><\/p>\n

Images \u2013 The University of Manchester, Mitch Altman<\/a>, Eddy Chang<\/a>, Richard Heyes<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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