{"id":1617,"date":"2018-01-08T11:51:37","date_gmt":"2018-01-08T11:51:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/?p=1617"},"modified":"2018-05-22T17:01:27","modified_gmt":"2018-05-22T16:01:27","slug":"read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Read this before you go sales shopping: the environmental costs of fast fashion"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>Dr Patsy Perry, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing, warns of the damage fast fashion is having on the environment. Do we need to return to a Make Do and Mend mentality?<\/em><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2015\/11\/patsyrestarauntblog.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-1253\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2015\/11\/patsyrestarauntblog-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"Patsy enjoying some of her precious free time!\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2015\/11\/patsyrestarauntblog-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2015\/11\/patsyrestarauntblog.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2015\/11\/patsyrestarauntblog-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2015\/11\/patsyrestarauntblog-50x50.jpg 50w, https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2015\/11\/patsyrestarauntblog-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>It\u2019s tough to love our clothes and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.catexel.com\/news\/market-experts-explore-ways-lighten-textiles-environmental-load\/\">keep wearing them for longer<\/a> when we are faced with a tempting array of newness on offer in the shops. But before you head out into the January sales for those irresistible deals, spare a thought for the impact of fast fashion on the environment.<\/p>\n<p>Fast fashion focuses on speed and low cost in order to deliver frequent new collections inspired by catwalk looks or celebrity styles. But it is <a href=\"http:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/en\/news\/Blogs\/makingwaves\/fast-fashion-drowning-world-fashion-revolution\/blog\/56222\/\">particularly bad<\/a> for the environment as pressure to reduce cost and the time it takes to get a product from design to shop floor means that environmental corners are more likely <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/sustainable-business\/2017\/jun\/13\/hm-zara-marks-spencer-linked-polluting-viscose-factories-asia-fashion\">to be cut<\/a>. Criticisms of fast fashion <a href=\"http:\/\/www.thefashionlaw.com\/learn\/fast-fashions-green-initiatives-dont-believe-the-hype\">include<\/a> its negative environmental impact, water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing levels of textile waste.<\/p>\n<p>Vibrant colours, prints and fabric finishes are appealing features of fashion garments, but many of these are achieved with <a href=\"http:\/\/source.ethicalfashionforum.com\/article\/10-toxic-chemicals-to-avoid-in-your-products\">toxic chemicals<\/a>. Textile dyeing is the <a href=\"http:\/\/file.scirp.org\/Html\/4-8301582_17027.htm\">second largest<\/a> polluter of clean water globally, after agriculture. Greenpeace\u2019s recent Detox campaign has been instrumental in pressuring fashion brands to take action to remove toxic chemicals from their supply chains, after it tested a number of brands\u2019 products and confirmed the presence of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/eastasia\/press\/releases\/toxics\/2012\/toxic-chemicals-detox-zara\/\">hazardous chemicals<\/a>. Many of these are <a href=\"http:\/\/e360.yale.edu\/features\/can_waterless_dyeing_processes_clean_up_clothing_industry_pollution\">banned or strictly regulated<\/a> in various countries because they are toxic, bio-accumulative (meaning the substance builds up in an organism faster than the organism can excrete or metabolise it), disruptive to hormones and carcinogenic.<\/p>\n<p>Polyester is <a href=\"http:\/\/textileexchange.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/TE-Preferred-Fiber-Market-Report-Oct2016-1.pdf\">the most popular<\/a> fibre used for fashion. But when <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/environment\/2016\/jun\/20\/microfibers-plastic-pollution-oceans-patagonia-synthetic-clothes-microbeads\">polyester garments<\/a> are washed in domestic washing machines they shed microfibers that add to the increasing levels of plastic in our oceans. These microfibers are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/sustainable-business\/2017\/feb\/12\/seafood-microfiber-pollution-patagonia-guppy-friend\">minute<\/a> and can easily pass through sewage and wastewater treatment plants into our waterways, but because they do not biodegrade, they represent a serious threat to aquatic life. Small creatures such as plankton eat the microfibres, which then make their way up the food chain to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/sustainable-business\/2017\/feb\/12\/seafood-microfiber-pollution-patagonia-guppy-friend\">fish and shellfish<\/a> eaten by humans.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><em><strong>Read more: <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/how-your-pile-of-laundry-fills-the-sea-with-plastic-pollution-80109\">How your pile of laundry fills the sea with plastic pollution<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>The devastating impact of toxic chemical use in agriculture for growing cotton was shown in a documentary called <a href=\"https:\/\/truecostmovie.com\/\">The True Cost<\/a>, including the death of a US cotton farmer from a brain tumour and serious birth defects in Indian cotton farmers\u2019 children. Cotton growing requires high levels of <a href=\"https:\/\/ejfoundation.org\/what-we-do\/cotton\/the-true-costs-of-cotton\">water and pesticides<\/a> to prevent crop failure, which can be problematic in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.statista.com\/statistics\/263055\/cotton-production-worldwide-by-top-countries\/\">developing countries<\/a> that may lack sufficient investment and be at risk of drought.<\/p>\n<figure><div class=\"video-container\"><span class=\"embed-youtube\" style=\"text-align:center; display: block;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" class=\"youtube-player\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/OaGp5_Sfbss?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;fs=1&#038;hl=en-GB&#038;autohide=2&#038;wmode=transparent\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" style=\"border:0;\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox\"><\/iframe><\/span><\/div><\/figure>\n<p>Most cotton grown worldwide is <a href=\"https:\/\/truecostmovie.com\/learn-more\/environmental-impact\/\">genetically modified<\/a> to be resistant to the bollworm pest, thereby improving yield and reducing pesticide use. But this can also lead to <a href=\"http:\/\/livebettermagazine.com\/article\/the-dark-side-of-genetically-modified-foods\/\">problems<\/a> further down the line, such as the emergence of \u201csuperweeds\u201d which are resistant to standard pesticides. They often need to be treated with more toxic pesticides that are harmful to livestock and humans.<\/p>\n<p>There is growing interest in organic cotton, with H&amp;M and Inditex, the parent company of Zara, featuring among the world\u2019s <a href=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/downloads\/2017-organic-cotton-market-report\/\">top five<\/a> users of organic cotton by volume in 2016. But overall use of organic cotton represents <a href=\"https:\/\/www.c-and-a.com\/uk\/en\/corporate\/company\/newsroom\/featured-stories\/2016\/for-the-love-of-fashion\/\">less than 1%<\/a> of the world\u2019s total annual cotton crop.<\/p>\n<h2>Hunger for newness<\/h2>\n<p>Textile waste is an unintended consequence of fast fashion, as more people buy more clothes and don\u2019t keep them as long as they used to. The international expansion of fast fashion retailers exacerbates the problem on a global scale. Wardrobes in developed nations are saturated, so in order to sell more products, retailers must tempt shoppers with constant newness and convince them the items they already have are no longer fashionable.<\/p>\n<p>Increasing disposable income levels over <a href=\"https:\/\/www.economist.com\/news\/finance-and-economics\/21730674-gap-closing-millennials-are-doing-better-baby-boomers-did\">recent generations<\/a> means there is less need to \u201cmake do and mend\u201d, as it\u2019s often cheaper and more convenient to buy new <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/community-repair-a-pop-up-alternative-to-the-throwaway-society-75821\">than have an item repaired<\/a>. Busy lifestyles make many people more time-poor than previous generations, and with the loss of sewing and mending skills over time, there is less impetus to repair our garments. The rise of supermarket fashion that can be purchased alongside the weekly shop and the regular occurrence of seasonal sales make clothing seem \u201cdisposable\u201d, in a way it didn\u2019t used to be.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><em><strong>Read more: <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/community-repair-a-pop-up-alternative-to-the-throwaway-society-75821\">Community repair \u2013 a pop-up alternative to the throwaway society<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>There is interest in moving towards a more circular model of textile production which <a href=\"https:\/\/daily.jstor.org\/fashion-forward-three-revolutionary-fabrics-greening-industry\/\">reuses<\/a> materials wherever possible, yet current recycling rates for textiles are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org\/publications\/a-new-textiles-economy-redesigning-fashions-future\">very low<\/a>. Despite a long-established national network of charity shops and increasing numbers of in-store recycling points in UK high street stores, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/environment\/2017\/apr\/06\/britons-expected-to-send-235m-items-of-clothing-to-landfill-this-spring\">three-quarters of Britons<\/a> throw away unwanted clothing, rather than donating or recycling it.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"align-center \"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/199931\/original\/file-20171219-4995-wr6a6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip\" alt=\"\" \/><figcaption><span class=\"caption\">No more make do and mend.<\/span><br \/>\n<span class=\"attribution\"><a class=\"source\" href=\"https:\/\/www.shutterstock.com\/home\">wwww.shutterstock.com<\/a><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>What shoppers can do<\/h2>\n<p>So, can consumers reduce the environmental cost of fast fashion when out shopping? Choosing an eco-friendly fabric is complex as there are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nrdc.org\/sites\/default\/files\/CBD-Fiber-Selection-FS.pdf\">pros and cons<\/a> to all fibre types. Garments which are labelled as being made from natural fibres are not necessarily better than synthetic, as fibre choice is only one part of a complex picture. Fibres still have to be spun, knitted or woven, dyed, finished, sewn, and transported \u2013 all of which have different environmental impacts.<\/p>\n<p>For example, choosing organic fabrics is better than choosing non-organic fabrics in terms of the chemicals used to grow the fibres, but organic cotton still requires high amounts of water and the impacts of dyeing it are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nrdc.org\/sites\/default\/files\/CBD-Fiber-Selection-FS.pdf\">higher<\/a> than the impacts of dyeing polyester.<\/p>\n<p>Recycled content is often best of all, as it reduces the pressure on virgin resources and tackles the growing problem of waste management. For example, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.patagonia.com\/recycled-polyester.html\">Patagonia<\/a> was the first outdoor clothing brand to make polyester fleece out of plastic bottles. In 2017, it decided to rationalise its T-shirt ranges and from spring 2018, will offer only two fabric options of either 100% organic cotton or a blend of recycled cotton and recycled polyester, recognising that even organic cotton has a negative environmental impact.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/counter.theconversation.com\/content\/88373\/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic\" alt=\"The Conversation\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" \/>The <a href=\"http:\/\/loveyourclothes.org.uk\/\">Love Your Clothes<\/a> initiative from the charity WRAP gives information for consumers on each stage of the purchase process, from buying smarter, to caring for and repairing items, to upcycling or customisation, and finally responsible disposal. Ultimately, the best thing we can do is to keep our clothing in use for longer \u2013 and buy less new stuff.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/profiles\/patsy-perry-426846\">Patsy Perry<\/a>, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing, <em><a href=\"http:\/\/theconversation.com\/institutions\/university-of-manchester-1204\">University of Manchester<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<p>This article was originally published on <a href=\"http:\/\/theconversation.com\">The Conversation<\/a>. Read the <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion-88373\">original article<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Header image credit &#8211; Woman&#8217;s Day<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Dr Patsy Perry, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing, warns of the damage fast fashion is having on the environment. Do we need to return to a Make Do and Mend mentality?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":160,"featured_media":1620,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[250,252],"tags":[12,223,222],"class_list":{"0":"post-1617","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-materials-world","8":"category-research-and-impact","9":"tag-fashion","10":"tag-fashion-marketing","11":"tag-fast-fashion","12":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Read this before you go sales shopping: the environmental costs of fast fashion - Department of Materials Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Read this before you go sales shopping: the environmental costs of fast fashion - Department of Materials Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dr Patsy Perry, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing, warns of the damage fast fashion is having on the environment. Do we need to return to a Make Do and Mend mentality?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Department of Materials Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-01-08T11:51:37+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-05-22T16:01:27+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\/uommaterialsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/38\/2018\/01\/Lady-in-red.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1400\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"401\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Hayley\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Hayley\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Hayley\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/693c22478ea174eee97a9f5da4117419\"},\"headline\":\"Read this before you go sales shopping: the environmental costs of fast fashion\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-01-08T11:51:37+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-05-22T16:01:27+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1127,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/38\\\/2018\\\/01\\\/Lady-in-red.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Fashion\",\"fashion marketing\",\"Fast fashion\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Materials World\",\"Research and impact\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.mub.eps.manchester.ac.uk\\\/uommaterialsblog\\\/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion\\\/\",\"name\":\"Read this before you go sales shopping: the environmental costs of fast fashion - 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